Monday, January 9, 2012

Comenzar

The night before a big journey always puts one thinking. Uncertainty? Certainly. The first fishing spot could result in complete failure leaving your spirits hopelessly crushed for the 4 month trial ahead. Thinking of this makes the end of the world feel just that much farther, and Bogota a pipe dream... but that's the beauty of the thumb! Anything is game and the ball is always in play. Take us a few kilometers to the Ruta 6? Awesome! All the way to Ushuaia? Nothing could be better! Share a beer? Preferably no if you're driving but hey man it's your vehicle your rules.

We'll see what Argentina has to offer. If it's anything close to the hospitality in Buenos Aires or Zarate thanks to A and family on Calle Escobar who didn't let you leave the house without first filling your stomach with arroz con pollo, or C and L in Zarate who have done everything possible to keep the damned mosquitoes at bay, you'd be traveling the rest of your life. But what's been realized more than anything is that this trip will be about the people you meet along the way. Time to rest the digitus primus.

Sunday, January 1, 2012

Fire stars, glass fruit, and basic rivers.

Taking it slow in Valparaiso after the firedance last night, it's cost hardly a few dollars to travel close to 400 kilometers.

True the trip up was full of stories and experiences worth sharing, but time will only permit a description of Valpo New Years chaos. An interesting word chaos, it's always plural.

The night begins suddenly, mounting a colectivo around 10 to a friend's hut and being introduced to many a couchsurfer who take great interest in your prospective trip and might even decide to join along. Rise to the canopy and you meet a group of gringos here in Chile for a business startup program contracted by the government, it's difficult to get a true vibe reading as everyone is in 100% full-tilt party mode.

The fireworks are only the catalyst of the night as their sparks set-off the chain reaction of bacchus behavior that is soon to come, and when the show finishes you descend the hills.

Remains of the inebrious fruit have already started to accumulate in the gutters as they rattle down the concrete sometimes hopping then exploding into a thousand different fragments that twinkle from the streetlights as if they wish to be fireworks themselves.

The 60% drunk swagger you've used as camouflage seems to be in style. Tunnel-vision still allows for enough periphery to see trees, walls, and doorsills being tagged by the herds of Beerbers in their natural habitat of blurred shadows. "Bathroom is unoccupied..."

Passing through the main thoroughfares is simply mind-numbing as entering crowds is like entering the forests of the Amazon complete with the venomous spitting Waaahalacas making bile pizzas on the sidewalks. Every once in a while you pass the lone crouching Gameovertang who's fallen victim to the over consumption of fruit in this strange harvest.

The night proceeds by scaling the mountains to attend the tribal dances with song emanating from the Bassbills perched on power-poles above the natives. There are distinct family groups but must most come from the Techno and Dance phylum.

As the sun begins to rise and you descend the highlands to the valleys below, the scenery comes into focus. The concrete basins, unable to retain the precipitation coming from the tribal overindulgence of beeries, have been converted to rivers and lakes. The stench of the basic liquid burns the nostrils but doesn't deter the masses from their continuous consumption and the glass shells give a perpetual jingle bouncing down the slopes.

The masses in the valley become restless, an electric tension is felt in the very ground they stand on. The sea begins to bump and crash into the structures of the jungle. You pass broken and damaged public features and decide it best to make your way to the den before the situation becomes dangerous.

Monday, December 26, 2011

Farewell to Conce

Sitting in the internet café off the central plaza of San Carlos you reflect on the first day of the viaje.

Christmas in Penco. Probably the place most like your native Hermosa Beach. Small town on the coast of a large city. The avocado eaten before Christmas mass is doing a number on the intestines. Going back to Jorge's place begins a night of discussing politics until 4:30 when you finally have to excuse yourself and crash on the couch.

So much for leaving at the crack of dawn. The pack has to wait for assembly until 11 after a few more winks of sleep. Alas it never ceases to amaze how much cluttler and crap has been accumulated over the year and how easy it is to pack-rat it all.

Mid-way through the process you take a stroll through the neighborhood you've come to know quite well over the last 10 months. Chacabuco is deserted but Parque Equador is in full swing with children running around the fountain and riding new bicycles on the path. You stop by the bakery where a good friend Fernanda works and she gives you two absolutely exquisite empanadas for the day's journey. A few days earlier she also gifted you a set of combat rations straight from the Chilean special forces unit for the southern journey ahead. Awesome.

The first go of the pack is deemed much too heavy, around 35 kilos, alas the shaver and water bottle must go. A gift for Chimbe and a beard for you.

One last pass of the apartment, home for the past 10 months, and a shot of pisco to calm the nerves. Nervious? Possibly. Anxious as hell to get started? Been that way for months now.

Damn this pack is heavy walking through the streets of Conce but you've got to pass by your favorite bar to snap a pic. Averno, you shall be missed.

Time to get on the micro to drop you off at the spot you've fished there before but there are already doubts before you start.

Walk a way up the highway, it's still not too late to back out and return to Penco for the night with Jorge, out with the thumb.

10 minutes and you try a sign, "quizás soy Jesús" perfect for the season.

30 minutes in and you've got a bite! You run over collecting your 3 bags of mostly junk, fumbling and dropping them, but ecstatic to have a ride.

"Ruta 5? San Carlos?"
"Te llevamos a Chillan, dale?"
Awesome!

The car starts out towards la Ruta de Itata. "Wanna beer?"
You can tell this ride is going to be good.

Politics,highways constructed by Mexican imperialist businesses, music, time signatures, the Gringo Nations' lack of rhythm...

"haha! Yea I've tried to dance cueca a few times" you mention, then admit "beer helps".
"I play cueca and other music at a bar every Tuesday..."
"Wait, you mean martes Chileno? At the Averno? Weon! You're the guitarist aren't you!"
"Sure am!"

If running into a musician from your favorite bar isn't a sign then you'll be damned.

"So you're from California right? You know there's a lot of links between that state and Chile. In fact one of the cuecas I sing is about the roto chileno working in California during the gold boom."
"What exactly is the roto chileno?"
"Basically a Chilean who works from day to day on odd jobs. He's good at drinking, a womanizer, and sleeps anywhere he can lay his head."

You arrive on the outskirts of Chillan, exchange numbers for a possible New Years' encounter in Valpo. Good man that Choro Boro and his girlfriend!

You walk under the overpass and relieve the beer, fish a bit longer but it's a bad spot. Maybe it's best to stay in Chillan for the night so you walk over to the toll booth entering the town.

Standing less than 5 minutes later a middle aged lady in very nice car takes you to the street ("Schlayer" says the woman, "German, heil Hitler"... hmmm maybe that was a bit innapropriate Señora) of your friend L, you practice English along the way.

A few calls yeild nothing, a short walk and you ring the bell.
"Hello, who is it?...Sarkis? Really?"
 L and T are going to Conce, but at least you manage to have some sort of farewell as you had missed a goodbye with them a few days prior.

So you're left to have delighful conversations over Christmas cake with the mother and you're certain this is what you've been looking for.

Saturday, December 17, 2011

Manifesto


Reflecting on the past 10 months you realize it’s been a good while since your last trip back in July, and even longer since February. These didn’t exactly feel like real trips however, they were rushed and had an end date that was too soon. It was binge travel, one of your arch enemies.

The natural progression of travel has led you through the gamut of styles that has resulted in this dislike for binge traveling. In high school it was of the prepared and paid for variety that introduced you to Costa Rica. A bit more independence was tasted on the road trip of West US and led to a longer, yet still pre-paid, stay in Spain.

It wasn’t until the US perimeter voyage that travel began to become more than just a summer escape or weekend excursion, and it wasn’t until this point that the concept of the end date became such a formidable foe. It was still a short period of time to be sure, 3 weeks, and if it hadn’t been for finishing your degree, it would have lasted 3 years. Arriving back to the daily grind of study and work only left a bitter taste and a need to avenge yourself for the time slaved away.

The decision to teach English in Chile was meant to be a double-edged sword to both work and travel, you were ready to assimilate into the culture and open to be Chilean. Since February you’ve tried and succeeded in some respects. Your language is noticeably saturated with the Chilean dialect and vocabulary, something your Colombian neighbor with her near perfect Spanish loves to point out. You’ve also encountered many sides of Chilean society from the man who sells chocolates and cigarettes from his cooler to your boss who treats you to bottomless buffet lunches, and both are encountered daily. But there was one flaw in the plan, the job kept you pinned to a worker’s schedule. It was a morning to afternoon gig that many times demanded even more than that. Such hours made it nearly impossible to interact with your student housemate that followed the post-noon to post-midnight clock. You had the perfect set-up to create many friendships and stay in the university student atmosphere that you so adored, but once again, society (for lack of a better word) and tedious obligation kept you on the baby leash and didn’t let you roam off the 9-5 path. Once again you had been outsmarted. 10 months and the connection with your housemate is still little more than acquaintance. Many opportunities were planted, yet few flowered. Thankfully, those relationships that do exist and managed to survive are of the highest quality but to say you truly knew the student life of Concepción would be to tell a lie.

For this reason so much is riding on “El Viaje”. The whole year has been spent working with this one redeeming factor in mind: that in the end you’ll have the opportunity for real extended travel. Yet the particular idea or mission of El Viaje has only managed to truly take form in the last arduous months. All of your trips to date have been of a certain brand, that of security: security in lodging, security in finances, security in food, security in contact, and  security in knowing just where you’ll be the next day. You’ve convinced yourself that what will come when leaving Concepción must be different.  It needs to be like that one day you decided to leave it to the road gods and tried your hand (literally) at hitchhiking. While the mission had been to reach Ventura from San Luis Obispo and then merely take public transport to LA, the events that transpired gave you a much more real feeling of true…adventure that just hadn’t existed on your previous jaunts.

And so, for El Viaje, it is decided that the only money for transportation will be used to get you to the start (Tierra del Fuego) and to take you off the continent (Bogota) as well as a bit for emergencies. This leaves a good few thousand kilometers to burn through and every meteorological climate minus the Antarctic. Unfortunately there is still a time limit as the route must be completed before May 11th, the day of your brother’s graduation, and you’re sure as hell not going to miss that. It wasn’t until a few days ago that you were planning to fly solo, but over a few beers and a few more serious conversations later, you’ve found a companion in one of your former students.  Not only will this make things much easier and safer on the road, but sharing experiences increases their values exponentially.

The date is set (December 25th) and the pack armed, now it’s time to see where the thumb takes you.

EQ Report:
25/11 4.9
11/12 4.9
14/12 4.8
15/12 4.4

Sunday, November 20, 2011

Chancho Blues


Wind’s a howlin’ but I got me a fire burnin’ bright
Wind’s a howlin’ boy and damn it be dark this night
I’ve got my shelter to the left and, this little piggy on the right

Well we got into Lebu at 10, looking to camp out on the beach
It was looking rather bleak, just where was that damned beach?
We asked the bus man and he said, “boys you’re out of luck, you got a 2 mile walk to reach”

A bit down, we didn’t have a place to stay in the dark
A bit down, we had really missed the mark
But a moment later, bus man said we could set up camp in the overnight bus park

Now we talked with the night man, he said it would be OK
We talked with the night man, said “you boys have a place to stay!”
“But just one word to you guys, in the mornin’ you better leave, before the pig sees his final day

Confused a bit, we took a look around
Sure enough, we saw little Chanchito sleeping there on the ground
Poor little guy sleeping, without any idea of what was about to go down

Well we camped that night, little Chanchito didn’t make a peep
Made a fire for cookin’ our grub, and right along side us he did sleep
We could count our blessings, for our lives we were going to keep

Sun came up the following morning, and we rose out of our sacks
Maxwell drove up with his friends, he carried a big old hammer gleaming black
There we were at that moment, ain’t no time for turning back.

So the buddies roused up Chanchito, I think that pig knew his fate.
Yea they got him all ready, there wasn’t a word of debate.
A combo with the sledge and blade, and ol Chanchi was ready for a plate.




EQ Update:
3/9/11: 5.8
13/9/11: 4.7
14/10/11: 4.8
4/11/11: 4.5
11/11/11: 5.2
17/11/11: 4.5

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Get your rocks off


It’s all fun and games until someone blows a mind fuse. The thing is what trips it. In this case let’s call it the scenario.

In the second day of a national strike called upon for the purpose of protesting the administration’s education policy, the students are ready for the their favorite pastime, the juego con pacos. It is an inevitability that everyone knows. It would be surprising if it didn’t happen because after every march it happens. The encapuchados run to Plaza Peru and the University to give the call and send out the beacon, usually in the form of blocking traffic on all sides and then warming the asphalt with some sort of toxic assortment set aflame, they wait. Some yell insults, others amass armaments, but this young punk crowd knows it’s all for the game. Many may truly believe in the original intention of the day’s movements but once the greens appear, it’s all to shit.

Normally a few lookouts may come sprinting full tilt, arms a flappin to warn the masses it’s coming. De-glorified real-humanized Paul Reveres. And the hoard retreats to the U, because what can they do against a metal, chemical-laced-water spraying bull barreling down upon them motor roaring saying “I’ve got the cock n’ balls when it comes to the asphalt you little shits”.

Let the games begin!

The bull makes a pass, óle conchetumadre! Then BAM, CLAK, WHIK, CHANK, BONK the toreadores hurl their estoques of stone, concrete, and glass at the animal. This emboldens the masses and they storm out of the U, hooting and hollering like the stereotypical image of the Cheyenne tribe besting the forces of George Custer.

But please, a bit of water is not the only thing the evil green suppressors have at their disposal. A baritone thump is heard and soon shouts ring out of incoming objects leaving a trail of beige smoke in their wake. A retreat to the U is in order, but the damned smoke of the devil is everywhere! Disperse! Retreat further into the bowels of the fort! The nurses, bless their souls. Their beauty cannot be hidden by the scarves that cover their faces. An application of a lemon and salt underneath the eyes and nose mitigate the sting. The infantry are soon back on the front lines, for they too have some fiendish aces up their sleeves.

The bull makes another pass on the street, already filled with debris and puddles of acid-water. This time the natives are more resolute in their mission and a phalanx moves forward. Bursting out of the attack group is the hooded- kamikaze and in his right hand a burning wick with a bottle at the end. Thrown with all it’s might, the ex-Cabernet Sauvignon turned Octane 93 hits its mark, the eye of the beast, and explodes in a spectacular ball of flame. Another whoop comes from the banshees but it’s silenced quickly as another round of burning clouds descend upon them. But there is help on the way, for some tribesman has acquired a mask that is resistant to the sinister substance. He runs around feverously picking up the canister culprits and dousing them in his bucket. Onward comrades!

And so the game is played late into the night until it’s time for the parents to call the children to bed.









Tembloring:
4.7 12/7
4.6, 5.3 25/7
4.6 1/8
5.1, 4.8 6/8
4.7 20/8

Monday, July 11, 2011

Soy loco que corro

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B8vDzHm4t44&feature=player_embedded

Click on the x in the top right corner a few times to see the video.


ESOS LOCOS QUE CORREN
Yo los conozco.
Los he visto muchas veces.
Son raros.
Algunos salen temprano a la mañana y se empeñan en ganarle al sol.
Otros se insolan al mediodía, se cansan a la tarde o intentan que no los atropelle un camión por la noche.
Están locos.
En verano corren, trotan, transpiran, se deshidratan y finalmente se cansan… sólo para disfrutar del descanso.
En invierno se tapan, se abrigan, se quejan, se enfrían, se resfrían y dejan que la lluvia les moje la cara.
Yo los he visto.
Pasan rápido por la rambla, despacio entre los árboles, serpentean caminos de tierra, trepan cuestas empedradas, trotan en la banquina de una carretera perdida, esquivan olas en la playa, cruzan puentes de madera, pisan hojas secas, suben cerros, saltan charcos, atraviesan parques, se molestan con los autos que no frenan, disparan de un perro y corren, corren y corren.
Escuchan música que acompaña el ritmo de sus piernas, escuchan a los horneros y a las gaviotas, escuchan sus latidos y su propia respiración, miran hacia delante, miran sus pies, huelen el viento que pasó por los eucaliptos, la brisa que salió de los naranjos, respiran el aire que llega de los pinos y entreparan cuando pasan frente a los jazmines.
Yo los he visto.
No están bien de la cabeza.
Usan championes con aire y zapatillas de marca, corren descalzos o gastan calzados. Traspiran camisetas, calzan gorras y miden una y otra vez su propio tiempo.
Están tratando de ganarle a alguien.
Trotan con el cuerpo flojo, pasan a la del perro blanco, pican después de la columna, buscan una canilla para refrescarse… y siguen.
Se inscriben en todas las carreras… pero no ganan ninguna.
Empiezan a correrla en la noche anterior, sueñan que trotan y a la mañana se levantan como niños en Día de Reyes.
Han preparado la ropa que descansa sobre una silla, como lo hacían en su infancia en víspera de vacaciones.
El día antes de la carrera comen pastas y no toman alcohol, pero se premian con descaro y con asado apenas termina la competencia.
Nunca pude calcularles la edad pero seguramente tienen entre 15 y 85 años.
Son hombres y mujeres.
No están bien.
Se anotan en carreras de ocho o diez kilómetros y antes de empezar saben que no podrán ganar aunque falten todos los demás.
Estrenan ansiedad en cada salida y unos minutos antes de la largada necesitan ir al baño.
Ajustan su cronómetro y tratan de ubicar a los cuatro o cinco a los que hay que ganarles.
Son sus referencias de carrera: “Cinco que corren parecido a mí”.
Ganarle a uno solo de ellos será suficiente para dormir a la noche con una sonrisa.
Disfrutan cuando pasan a otro corredor… pero lo alientan, le dicen que falta poco y le piden que no afloje.
Preguntan por el puesto de hidratación y se enojan porque no aparece.
Están locos, ellos saben que en sus casas tienen el agua que quieran, sin esperar que se la entregue un niño que levanta un vaso cuando pasan.
Se quejan del sol que los mata o de la lluvia que no los deja ver.
Están mal, ellos saben que allí cerca está la sombra de un sauce o el resguardo de un alero.
No las preparan… pero tienen todas las excusas para el momento en que llegan a la meta.
No las preparan…son parte de ellos.
El viento en contra, no corría una gota de aire, el calzado nuevo, el circuito mal medido, los que largan caminando adelante y no te dejan pasar, el cumpleaños que fuimos anoche, la llaga en el pie derecho de la costura de la media nueva, la rodilla que me volvió a traicionar, arranqué demasiado rápido, no dieron agua, al llegar iba a picar pero no quise.
Disfrutan al largar, disfrutan al correr y cuando llegan disfrutan de levantar los brazos porque dicen que lo han conseguido.
¡Qué ganaron una vez más!
No se dieron cuenta de que apenas si perdieron con un centenar o un millar de personas… pero insisten con que volvieron a ganar.
Son raros.
Se inventan una meta en cada carrera.
Se ganan a sí mismos, a los que insisten en mirarlos desde la vereda, a los que los miran por televisión y a los que ni siquiera saben que hay locos que corren.
Les tiemblan las manos cuando se pinchan la ropa al colocarse el número, simplemente por que no están bien.
Los he visto pasar.
Les duelen las piernas, se acalambran, les cuesta respirar, tienen puntadas en el costado… pero siguen.
A medida que avanzan en la carrera los músculos sufren más y más, la cara se les desfigura, la transpiración corre por sus caras, las puntadas empiezan a repetirse y dos kilómetros antes de la llegada comienzan a preguntarse que están haciendo allí.
¿Por qué no ser uno de los cuerdos que aplauden desde la vereda?
Están locos.
Yo los conozco bien.
Cuando llegan se abrazan de su mujer o de su esposo que disimulan a puro amor la transpiración en su cara y en su cuerpo.
Los esperan sus hijos y hasta algún nieto o algún abuelo les pega un grito solidario cuando atraviesan la meta.
Llevan un cartel en la frente que apaga y prende que dice “Llegué -Tarea Cumplida”.
Apenas llegan toman agua y se mojan la cabeza, se tiran en el pasto a reponerse pero se paran enseguida porque lo saludan los que llegaron antes.
Se vuelven a tirar y otra vez se paran porque van a saludar a los que llegan después que ellos.
Intentan tirar una pared con las dos manos, suben su pierna desde el tobillo, abrazan a otro loco que llega más transpirado que ellos.
Los he visto muchas veces.
Están mal de la cabeza.
Miran con cariño y sin lástima al que llega diez minutos después, respetan al último y al penúltimo porque dicen que son respetados por el primero y por el segundo.
Disfrutan de los aplausos aunque vengan cerrando la marcha ganándole solamente a la ambulancia o al tipo de la moto.
Se agrupan por equipos y viajan 200 kilómetros para correr 10.
Compran todas las fotos que les sacan y no advierten que son iguales a las de la carrera anterior.
Cuelgan sus medallas en lugares de la casa en que la visita pueda verlas y tengan que preguntar.
Están mal.
-Esta es del mes pasado- dicen tratando de usar su tono más humilde.
-Esta es la primera que gané- dicen omitiendo informar que esa se la entregaban a todos, incluyendo al que llegaba último y al inspector de tránsito.
Dos días después de la carrera ya están tempranito saltando charcos, subiendo cordones, braceando rítmicamente, saludando ciclistas, golpeando las palmas de las manos de los colegas que se cruzan.
Dicen que pocas personas por estos tiempos son capaces de estar solos -consigo mismo- una hora por día.
Dicen que los pescadores, los nadadores y algunos más.
Dicen que la gente no se banca tanto silencio.
Dicen que ellos lo disfrutan.
Dicen que proyectan y hacen balances, que se arrepienten y se congratulan, se cuestionan, preparan sus días mientras corren y conversan sin miedos con ellos mismos.
Dicen que el resto busca excusas para estar siempre acompañado.
Están mal de la cabeza.
Yo los he visto.
Algunos solo caminan… pero un día… cuando nadie los mira, se animan y trotan un poquito.
En unos meses empezarán a transformarse y quedarán tan locos como ellos.
Estiran, se miran, giran, respiran, suspiran y se tiran.
Pican, frenan y vuelven a picar.
Me parece que quieren ganarle a la muerte.
Ellos dicen que quieren ganarle a la vida.
Están completamente locos.